BMW ENGINE LAG PROBLEM

BMW ENGINE LAG!

On BMW N62, N63 and other engines especially e65, e66, e60, e63, e64 series most likely you might experience some gas pedal lag delay or uneven power delivery at lows. It feels like you press on it and engine barely revs from lows or it revs, but you have to press it harder to feel it. Assuming engine and tranny do not have any problems and all other components run as they should, I mean no vacuum leaks, all sensors read correct values etc, but still it feels like gas pedal is slow at lows, usually in the city driving. Funny part BMW will tell you its normal lag because of drive by wire nowadays standard, though there was no delay on m62tu engines with similar drive by wire gas pedal back in 1999. Lots of people buy some magic gas pedal boosters 200-300$, but they should understand, that this booster simply sends 2x signal to DME (engine brain),so it basically feels like you press 2x harder. This method (if you call it a method) is not a good one for a few reasons:

-it will make your car less smoother or some say it fells jerky

-not safe, you can easily rear end someone in the city

-premature transmission wear and tear

-overall more stressful for the engine and tranny

-higher gas consumption

-overpriced 200$+

So we have been looking for a solution for a while and looks like we found it!!!

and its all original BMW OEM. You simply need to replace your gas pedal assembly with the newest one they sell at the dealers or online, but make sure they sell you the newer design, because newer pedal assembly is way better and has newer chip built in, also it has newer pedal design, so it wont get sticky if dirt or water gets there. You will be really surprised, that the lag will be gone and bmw will perform like it should without any lag from lows and overall will make it fell much smoother. Look at these pics:

newer part number is: 35426860784

you can get it form the dealer or online, just make sure they sell you newer design only, because lots of sellers still have old pedals in stock.

newer gas pedal design:

newer_gas_pedal

newer_gas_pedal_sideview

older gas pedal design:

old_gas_pedal

gas_pedal_old

   It is very easy to remove it, just remove plastic cap,  unscrew the metal screw 2, and then disconnect a connector. Install a new one and done! you can reset engine adaptations, but not very necessarily, it will work as is.

Basically BMW updated gas pedal design for that reason, but of course they didn’t recall it, so they know this problem really well, otherwise why they completely redesigned it??

This modification will work on any BMW with similar part numbers.

BMW E65, E66, E60, E63, E90, E92, E93, E64, E87, E53, E70 AUX PORT MOD MODIFICATION

Yes, it is very annoying, that BMW decided not to install aux port by default in our vehicles before 2007. In this post let’s find out what you need to get for AUX port in your bimmer.

E65 BMW 750I, 750LI, 760LI, 745I, 745LI, 730I, 730D ETC.

If your car is pre 2007, and you don’t have aux port in your idrive and neither you have aux port in your glove box- you are not in very good shape. To say the least its the hardest bmw body type if you decided you need aux port! Why?  Because ask unit cd player and pretty much all multimedia modules in this car are digital, and there is no analogue signals anymore, and aux port signal is analogue, so common sense tells you need to convert it to digital bmw e65 signal in order to get sound from your sound system, doesn’t sound easy at all to say the least.

So here are the options:

  1. BMW E65 FACTORY OEM AUX PORT INSTALLATION.  DO NOT EVEN THINK OF BUYING BMW OEM AUX CORD JUST BECAUSE SOMEONE SAID ITS SO SIMPLE: BUY THE CORD 5-75$ CONNECT OT THE BACK OF YOUR ASK UNIT AND DONE??? REALLY?  YES, CORD WILL FIT IN THERE AND THAT’S IT HERE- YOU WILL NOT GET ANYTHING WORKING APART FROM THAT GOOD SIDE YOU HAVE USELESS AUX PORT IN YOUR CAR. WELL, HERE IS WHAT YOU NEED:
    1. IF YOUR CAR IS PREFACE LIFTED 2002-2005  BMW 745I, 745LI, 760LI, 730I, 730D, THEN YOU NEED NEWER TYPE MMI SCREEN FROM 2006-2008 MODELS PLUS NEWER 2007-2008 ASK UNIT CD PLAYER. AND AFTER THAT YOU HAVE TO CODE BOTH TO YOUR CAR USING NCS EXPERT BMW PROGRAM TO ENABLE AUX INPUT IN MMI SCREEN (IF SCREEN CAME FROM 2006 CAR) AND CODE ASK UNIT TO WORK WITH YOUR TUNER AND OTHER MODULES. WHY? BECAUSE EVERY CAR  HAS DIFFERENT OPTIONS AND FOR EXAMPLE RADIO TUNER WILL NOT WORK WITH NEWER ASK UNIT IF NOT REPROGRAMMED OR RECODED, ALSO SOME CARS WERE EQUIPPED WITH L7 TOP HIFI SYSTEM VS STANDARD HIFI SYSTEM, THAT’S WHY THOSE MODULES HAVE TO BE CODED. AND ONLY AFTER ALL THESE PROCEDURES YOU CAN BUY AUX BMW CORD AND IT WILL WORK! ALSO YOU WILL NEED FACELIFTED WOODEN TRIM, BC YOUR ORIGINAL WILL NOT FIT ANYMORE.
    2. IF YOUR CAR IS FACELIFTED 2006 BMW 750I, 750LI, 760LI, 740D, YOU ARE IN BETTER POSITION. YOU WILL ONLY NEED NEWER ASK UNIT 2007+, BC EVEN THOUGH THEY LOOK THE SAME, HARDWARE INSIDE IS SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT AND ONLY LATER 2006 (WEEK 30 AND UP)+ MODELS WILL WORK WITH AUX UNIT AND CODING MMI SCREEN TO ACCEPT AUX INPUT, THEN YOU WILL GET AUX IN THE MENU AND EASY WAY TO CHECK IF ASK UNIT SUPPORTS AUX IS TO SEE IF IT RETURNS AUX LEVEL AFTER YOU CHOSE AUX IN THE MENU. OLDER ASK UNITS WILL NOT RETURN THAT LEVEL SUB MENU.

2. NON OEM AUX PORT CAN ONLY BE INSTALLED VIA RADIO TUNER MODULE, YOU WILL GET CLEAR SOUND, AND IT WILL OVERRIDE ANY RADIO STATION. VERY SIMPLE, YOU PLUG YOUR PHONE AND YOU WILL GET CD QUALITY SOUND. IT WILL ONLY WORK IF YOU DON’T HAVE HD RADIO MODULE. WILL WORK WITH ANY E65 2002-2008.  THIS IS TOTALLY DIFFERENT COMPARED TO LOW QUALITY RADIO TRANSMITTERS MODS. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH FM/AM, IT WILL OVERRIDE SOUND SOURCE. WORKS VERY GOOD WITH APPLE DEVICES. IF YOU NEED HELP WITH AUXILIARY PORT INSTALLATION YOU CAN EMAIL FOR DETAILS.

ALL OTHER SERIES ARE MUCH EASIER. E60, E90, E63, E64, E92, E93, E87, E53, E70 WILL ONLY NEED AUX PORT ENABLED VIA NCS CODING AND BUYING A CABLE.

BMW ABS/DSC/BRAKE LIGHTS ON? Christmas tree on the dash?

So this article is about quite standard problem you can find on lots of cars, but here its about BMW. So you started getting first random  lights on the dash and later it became permanent lights on mess on the dash. Usually you get ABS, DSC, DTC, BRAKE lights on and some messages on the idrive, like drive train malfunction, etc.

ABS_DSC

Lots of mechanics diagnose it as bad abs sensors, abs pump etc, because it shows these errors on the scanner.

YES, IT WILL NOT TELL YOU THAT ABS MODULE IS BAD, IT WILL ONLY TELL YOU WHAT SIGNALS ARE LOST, THEREFORE YOU END UP REPLACING LOTS OF WHEEL SENSORS, ABS PUMPS, SWITCHES AND SO ON. THE ANSWER IS INSIDE THE ABS UNIT-TINY GOLDEN WIRES BROKE OFF FROM AGE AND VIBRATION AND THAT’S WHY YOU GET ALL THOSE ERRORS!

ABS_DSC-_ENGINE

new_abs

SO SIMPLY REPLACE ABS/DSC UNIT WITH A NEW ONE (600$+)OR GET IT REBUILD FOR 100-150$ WITH WARRANTY. NOTICE NEW CLEAN MODULE DOES NOT NEED CODING- IT IS SELF CODED, SIMPLY IT WILL WRITE VIN NUMBER AFTER YOU CONNECT IT FOR THE FIRST TIME, SO DON’T PAY ANYONE FOR “CODING” NEW UNIT. USED UNIT NEEDS TO BE REPROGRAMMED, BUT I RECOMMEND NEW UNIT OR REBUILD YOURS.

Engine Overheating? No its not a head gasket problem!

Ok, i decided to create this post because i see lots of bimmers running hot or even overheating. You would say nothing new here, right? Well believe it or not lots of mechanics or shops trying to resolve this problem with no luck and in the end as a final solution they offer head gasket repair, which won’t fix anything.

So here are the main standard problems, applies to any water cooled engine:

  1. Radiator cap not sealing well or valve inside is not working anymore causing boiling in your cooling system due to pressure loss. Solution? replace radiator cap every 5 years even if its good.
  2. Any coolant leak will create pressure loss and introduce air in the system. Make sure there is no leaks. Use Pressure tester.
  3. Thermostat if bad, it stays open on these engines, and you usually get error code P0128 if heater inside burned or you get thermostat jammed error code. usually tstat lasts 70-100k easily.
  4. Water pump impeller can slip or even fall apart or bearing might seize causing total failure. Good thing these engines head gaskets are very strong and can sustain serious overheating.
  5. REPLACE TEMP SENSORS EVERY 70KMLS, THEY DO GO BAD AND SOMETIMES SHOW LOWER TEMPS THEN IT IS, ESPECIALLY WATER PUMP TEMP SENSOR, LOWER SENSOR IS KNOWN FOR  O-RING LEAK, APPLIES TO ANY BIMMER.
  6.  Main engine fan (electric) is bad or fan clutch not working anymore, though even with a bad fan clutch and fully working cooling system you will not get overheating, unless you are in Dubai traffic:) AC fan is very effective even with a bad fan clutch. Since 2004 BMW uses only electric fan for both AC and engine, so if it goes bad, you  will get overheating.

So, i was not going to create simple overheating article you can find anywhere, right? Its gotta be unique on this site! Here we go:

So what to do if there is no leaks and all hoses are new, gaskets etc, pressure tester confirmed no pressure loss, but engine still runs hot overheating transmission as well??? Did you know running hot will destroy all rubber gaskets and other rubber parts? Why? Because engine temps are not consistent like it  was designed! Ok, here is something nobody cares about when trying to fix overheating issues:

HEATER CONTROL VALVE! THIS VALVE DOES NOT LAST! RUBBER SEALS INSIDE BECOME BRITTLE, CLOGGING UP THE COOLANT CHANNELS GOING TO THE HEATER CORE! RESULT IS OBVIOUS=YOU CANNOT BLEED THE AIR OUT OF HEATER CORE=OVERHEATING! THIS ENGINE HAS SELF BLEEDING COOLANT SYSTEM, BUT IT WILL NOT WORK IF THIS VALVE IS CLOGGED.

HERE IS DISASSEMBLED HEATER VALVE FROM 2006 750LI with 98kmls. As you can see rubber seals are cracked and not flexible anymore, BUT if you have working auxillary water pump, you still get okay heat cabin, but system has air pocket, since you need very good flow when bleeding coolant system.

photo 1

HERE IS THE MAIN PROBLEM: YOU SHOULD SEE A NICE RUBBER SEAL AROUND THE VALVE, BUT ITS ALL BROKEN AND THE WORST PART IT CLOGGED RIGHT CHANNEL COMPLETELY:

photo 2 photo 3

SO GOOD RECOMMENDATION IS TO REPLACE IT EVERY 5-7 YEARS AND START EVERY COOLANT SYSTEM PROBLEM FROM THIS VALVE REPLACEMENT. IF THIS VALVE IS GOOD YOU CAN DRIVE YOUR CAR  EVEN WITH LEAKING COOLANT (I KNOW ITS NOT A GOOD IDEA), BUT YOU WILL NOT GET OVERHEATING ISSUES IF YOU KEEP ADDING COOLANT, BECAUSE ENGINE WILL BLEED ITSELF ALL THE TIME IF HEATER CORE HAS NO AIR POCKETS.  REMEMBER COOLANT SYSTEM IS THE MOST IMPORTANT SYSTEM IN YOUR CAR!

SO UNTIL YOU SEE OIL IN THE COOLING SYSTEM, OR COOLANT IN THE OIL OR EXHAUST SMELL FROM COOLANT TANK, DO NOT BELIEVE IN THE HEAD GASKET FAILURE. WHEN HEAD GASKET IS BAD, YOU  WILL KNOW IT FOR SURE:) V8, IS VERY STRONG ENGINE AND ITS NOT EASY TO DESTROY HEAD GASKET BY JUST OVERHEATING, DOESN’T APPLY TO STRAIGHT 6 THOUGH….

 

 

IVM or why my engine runs sluggish??? N62 applies to ALL cars with it. E53/e65/e60/e63/e64/e66

In this unique article i will describe why your engine  feels weak and you don’t feel low end torque anymore.

So you cannot find any faults in DME and no lights are on, everything is clean, but you feel your V8 runs like 4 cylinder KIA on lows? It applies to all bmw with n62 engines: E53, E63,E65, E66, E64, E60 and others.

Probably you heard about IVM failure main symptom:

-it will not start when you press the button, like no cranking at all, but it might start the next time or in few secs. It also might throw few errors in CAS because it didn’t start.

Yes, this happens when IVM went out completely and you are lucky if you got this symptom and you replaced IVM and found out it runs so much better and no issues at all.

Well, but in most (90%) cases it will not fail completely and will not show any symptoms and errors will be thrown.  For example in my case, i didn’t have any faults, but i was trying to find out why i have:

-Weak torque o low rpms 2-3k rpm, it just feels weak, gets better if it gets past 4-5k

-weak response when you press the gas pedal

-delay hesitation on take off

-transmission shifts incorrectly and feels like it shifts to higher gear too early. Like it will shift to 5th gear, but there is no power for it.

-sometimes you feel slight vibration on idle

-on HWY you feel like you need to constantly press the gas pedal otherwise it will slow down a lot. IN OTHER WORDS IT DOESN’T PULL BEFORE 4000K

-MPG is very bad

Anyways after spending some time and lots of money, honestly, it was very  annoying and upsetting, so i was about to get rid of my car, because it doesn’t feel V8 at all, it simply feels like 4 cylinder honda or something like this. You press on the gas and it doesn’t go, you have to press to 4000rpm to make it moving!!!! So after i tested my engine compression, transmission and all diagnostics showed up no errors, i was upset, because nothing else was left! I even replaced fuel pump though old one was showing ok pressure etc. NOBODY COULD TELL ME WHAT WAS WRONG.

photo 1(1)

and inside after T40 torxs were taken out:

photo 3 photo 4

And at some point i decided to open IVM since i was replacing the Ebox fan ( if you have ebox fan error, i strongly recoomen to replace it, because it helps to cool down ecu, and if it overheats it will cost you thousands easily). So what i found in IVM??? First what is IVM???

photo(4)

IVM is an INTEGRATED VOLTAGE MODULE, but in reality is just a relay module with 12 mini nice looking 4$ relays, yes simple relays, and everything looked good, except for DME RELAY!! 2 legs had soldering points cracked!! I assume they use silver solder and it cannot withstand the heat !! so…. you understand now what happens if DME relay points don’t have a good contact?  yes, injectors will not get a good signal and cannot open like they should and probably same thing for ignition! As a result engine runs like crp:) IVM_bad

After i repaired it, my N62 started running like brand new! and now i get 17/25 mpg easy! after that i saw about 30 cars and all of them had same issue, but nobody complained about engine torque:) they thought it was supposed to be like this! this is repaired IVM:

photo 2

I recommend to install a new one if you are not ok with soldering or try to solder it yourself and save 80$. Always clean contacts from old solder and sand it as much as you could and use old school lead based solder with good flux.

TRY IT AND ENJOY, EVEN IF YOU THINK EVERYTHING IS OK WITH YOUR CAR!! TAKES 10 MINS TO REMOVE. DO NOT BELIEVE THE DEALER THAT NOTHING IS WRONG WITH YOUR CAR BECAUSE COMPUTER DIDN’T SHOW ANY ERRORS, NOTHING IS PERFECT SO IS BMW, IT CANNOT DIAGNOSE ITSELF 100%. I FOUND THIS PROBLEM ON 30+ cars and counting! ITS A DESIGN FLAW, BUT BMW WILL NOT RECALL IT, THEY WILL ONLY REPLACE IT WHEN YOU GET NO START ERRORS!!!

 

 

Smoking white from tailpipe?? N62, N72 family engines applies to any V8, V12 from 2002 AND UP.

Smoking white from tailpipe?? N62, N72 family engines applies to any V8, V12 from 2002 AND UP.

smok valve seals

So most likely if you own bmw with N62 or N73 engine, most likely you have oil consumption or you noticed your car smokes white after prolonged sitting and idling??? Well this is the worst and very common problem with these engines. Do not listen to any fairy tales and accept it:

YOU NEED NEW VALVE SEALS! AND IT ALSO CAUSES CLOGGED AIR PORTS ON N62B44

Nothing will help and don’t waste your time and money:

-don’t even try thicker oils, it won’t help and is very bad for vanos lines

-don’t think any seafoming can help

You can replace CCV or mushroom valves on the valve covers. If they are cracked, you will get check engine light or simply it will introduce oil fumes into combustion camera. But here is the catch:

ccv

even if CCV is bad and torn completely, there is not much oil in the fumes to produce that much smoke anyways, even if you connect crankcase line directly into intake manifold (this is how it was connected in old cars anyways), you will not get much or any noticeable white smoke if compression is good, but it will affect oil consumption for sure.

But when valve seals are bad, you will definitely introduce lots of oil into the combustion camera, because it leaks right on the piston, compared to CCV, when there is time to mix oil fumes with intake air.

this what you need:

valveseals

FAILURE TO REPLACE VALVE SEALS WILL CAUSE:

-CATALYTHIC CONVERTERS FAILURE SOONER OR LATER

-RESTRICTED AIR FLOW FOR SECONADRY INJECTION PORTS ON 745LI, 645I, 545I, 745I

-WILL DAMAGE SPARK PLUGS

-WILL MAKE YOUR COMBUSTION CAMERA DIRTY, CAUSING ENEVEN IDLE AND POWER LOSS

-DRIVING WITH LOW OIL LEVEL WILL DAMAGE THE ENGINE

-WILL CLOG MUFFLERS AS WELL

So long story short you need valve seal job, which is expensive even at small shops 1500$-3000$ or 8000-9000$ at BMW dealerships!!!!! Good news is new valve seals were updated and will last for long.

My GOOD recommendations:

-YOU CAN DO IT WITHOUT REMOVING HEADS

-AVOID AGA MAGICAL TOOL: IT IS MUCH FASTER AND EASIER TO REMOVE CAMS AND DO IT RIGHT.

-ALWAYS REPLACE UPPER TIMING CHAIN COVER GASKETS ALONG WITH NEW VALVE COVER GASKETS

-REPLACE CHAIN TENSIONERS IN THE HEADS, BUT I ALSO RECOMMEND NEW CHAIN GUIDES, BECAUSE THEY DO WEAR OUT AND CAUSE UNEVEN IDLE AND POWER LOSS.

-INSTALL NEW CCV AND CLEAN CCV LINES EVERY 60KMLS

-DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT USED ENGINE!!! IT COULD AS BAD AS YOURS, BECAUSE RUBBER VALVE SEALS DO AGE WITH YEARS OF SITTING BADLY.

ALL VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH N62 ENGINES WILL EXPERINCE THIS PROBLEM SOONER OR LATER! IT CAN HAPPEN EVEN TO LOW MILES CARS, EVEN 40-60KMLS, SO WHEN YOU BUY N62 CAR

Battery replacement BMW e65 745i, 745Li, 750i, 750Li, 760Li, 730D, 740D, 730i, 735LI, common mistakes

Applies to any BMW with power module:

e90, e60, e70, F01, F02, F30 etc

So you got a “recharge battery’ warning, and you went to AutoZone or any other store and bought new battery. You installed it, then you probably were told to register it, or some mechanic registered it for you.

You think everything is good now, right?? But battery warning still comes back and some smart mechanic or independent shop tells you its okay as long as battery is new and registered!

So here is the story:

One 2003 BMW 745li with very low miles came over with ABS module errors and with battery discharge warning. Well, he replaced the battery and it was “professionally registered”. But not only problems still there, but now it actually creates lots of faults on the top! Plus his alternator seized! Coincidence?? So lets see:

BMW e65 before 2004 were equipped with 110ah standard lead acid battery.

After 2004 they introduced new standard, which is 90ah AGM battery (which is great battery if maintained well).

So not only type is different, but capacity is lower!!!

What happens when today you buy 90AGM battery (they don’t sell older 110ah battery for these cars) and install it into the vehicle which has highly sophisticated power module, which knows battery type and capacity??

Quite simple:

it will still think you have 110ah lead acid old battery and it will constantly try to charge it to get it to fully charged state!!! And it will not ever happen, but will destroy your new battery and will put lots of stress on alternator plus you might get various faults in different modules!

OLD 110ah LEAD ACID BATTERY setting:

CBS_SCEN_10H
    nicht_aktiv
CC_15_EIN
    wert_01
BATTERIE_KAPAZITAET
    110ah
ERKENNE_SBE1_HI_RE

NEW 90AGM SETTING

BATTERIE_KAPAZITAET
    90ah
ERKENNE_SBE1_HI_RE

or you can use BMW progman, which will do it automatically, but i prefer NCS instead: quick&easy&safe

That’s why BMW dealership will charge you more to reprogram your vehicle so it supports new battery type. This is what lots of mechanics and shops don’t know about or simply ignore it!!! Why?? because they don’t want to learn anything and interested in quick and easy money.

So basically you are supposed to check what power module says, but if your car is 2004+, most likely it came with 90AGM and all you need to do is to register it. There are few options here:

BMW INPA, ISTA, aftermarket tools can run it too, but only NCSEXPERT or PROGMAN can reprogram power module so it supports 90AGM.

AND YES YOU HAVE TO REGISTER NEW BATTERY, BECAUSE POWER MODULE CONSTANTLY CHECKS THE BATTTERY CAPACITY AND WITH AGE, BATTERY GETS WEAKER AND THEREFORE IT APPLIES LESS CURRENT TO FULLY CHARGE IT. SO NOT REGISTERING NEW BATTERY WILL MAKE POWER MODULE THINK, YOU HAVE STILL OLD WEAK BATTERY AND IT WILL NOT TRY TO FULLY CHARGE IT (I’M NOT GOING DEEPLY INTO DIFFERENT SPECS IT CHECKS AND RUNS WHILE YOU DRIVING YOUR CAR), BUT BOTTOM LINE YOU HAVE TO REGISTER IT AND IF YOUR CAR IS OLDER MODEL, YOU AVE TO MAKE SURE POWER MODULE ACCEPTS 90AGM.

HYDRAULIC TRUNK LIFT SAGA, MAIN ISSUES!

In this post i will describe standard problems and the ways to fix it and also the ways to retrofit it back to simple trunk shocks.

trunk_hydro

Premium option S316A for e65/66 was hydraulic trunk lift.  Yes its very comfortable and convenient, but with years these nice options give  more headaches, than luxury feeling. This Option includes:

-electro-hydraulic pump (located in the rear right panel) (8) -rarely just low on fluid due to leaks

-hydraulic piston or actuator, which lifts the trunk (3)- fails often, leaks onto NAVI unit

-Trunk lid shocks (23) -fails often

-electronic module (12) -rarely fails

And what fails? Everything, except for the pump (it has safety prevention valve).

 TRUNK LID SHOCKS FAILURE:

So if your trunk lid still opens after you press the button (remote, interior, trunk button), but it wont stay open or barely stays open especially on the hill

shocks_trunk

– YOU NEED NEW TRUNK LID SHOCKS (23), they got upgraded with silver coils vs old black ones which always fail.  NEW upgraded P/n: 51247201461. So even if your old ones are still working i strongly recommend newer springs, because it will help to reduce stress from hydraulic cylinder as well.

  Hydraulic Cylinder Leak:

Well, this is the worst and most expensive…. So if you press the button and nothing happens or you can hear the pump is trying to lift the lid but it shuts down right away, it means 2 things:

-Hydraulic fluid is low and therefore it stops the pump from failure. Sometimes BMW says you can loose some fluid over the time due to evaporation, aging etc…. but in my experience it means Cylinder leak. You can add some fluid into the pump on the left panel, but most likely it will leak out soon.

-Cylinder leak. In this case it explains where the sticky red fluid leaked and created mess in your left rear panel,  usually you see SVS,  NAVI unit covered in oil.

trunk_hydro

Options? Well you need new hydraulic cylinder kit p/n: 51247202868, which is quite expensive ~300$.  Plus you need new shocks 160-180$, 500$ in parts!! Lots of hassle to install it as well.

OR IF YOU ARE TIRED OF THIS (300$+160$(SHOCKS))AND WANT JUST A SIMPLE TRUNK OPTION, I RECOMMEND YOU FOLLOWING STANDARD TRUNK LID RETROFIT:

-you need to remove trunk shocks (use sharp pick tool to remove shock lock)

-disconnect  hydraulic cylinder and remove it including lines or simply move it out of the way.

-disconnect hydraulic pump electric connector or disconnect hydraulic trunk HKL module.  You can code it out using NCS, but not necessary.

-buy and install standard shocks 80$ each p/n: 51247201463

-DONE! Enjoy standard hassle free trunk lid with soft close feature. I know its not that luxury, but 500$ still in your pocket and you should be happy, bc no more worries it will leak again and flood your expensive modules. BMW says not to leave your car in the open sun, bc it makes things worse for hydarulic cylinder causing premature failure.

 

 

BMW n62 cooling system issues

This article is about most common BMW cooling system faults and how to diagnose and repair it.

Well, to start we need to know what perfect temperature specs for this V8 V12engine.

When car is fully warmed up and idling for 10 minutes you should see these numbers:

Upper Hose temperature-103-105C

n62b44_tstat_open_oem

note: Lower hose should be within 60-70C, this is very important because it indicates proper cooling system function. Lower hose or coolant output readings should be within 60-70C with open tstat.

very common mistake when mechanic thinks he bled the system right, but he doesn’t know the heater control valve is clogged and there is no way to bleed the air out and lower hose stays COLD, even auxiliary water pump fails because of this.

This screenshot shows proper transmission temperatures, when cooling system is fully functional and sealed:

6hp26_temps

 

NOTE: Some cars have cold firmware which opens up thermostat earlier therefore engine running temps are lower.

ALWAYS REPLACE RADIATOR CAP EVERY 5 YEARS, IT DOESNT LAST FOREVER!

If temps stay at 105-110C, it definitively means you have an airlock, which causing overheating and lower hose running cold.

This engine has self bleeding system, but it only works if cooling system is in great shape!

So most common problem you cannot bleed the air out is HEATER CONTROL VALVE, which always goes bad after 5-7 years or even earlier. Its very easy to replace and costs around 140$. Usually rubber valves crack and deteriorate clogging the valve so you cannot bleed the air out, moreover it clogs heater core, which is a real pain to replace. So remove the valve and at least inspect it:

-it should be clean inside and valves are open without 12V applied and easy to blow air through, in other words it should not have any restriction, but word of advice-REPLACE it, don’t wait, and it will also improve heat cabin.

 

LEAKS:

-Front seal aka weep hole problem can be easily diagnosed checking weep hole on the timing cover

Can be easily fixed with aftermarket solutions or with simple aluminum+RTV solution, which actually works pretty good.

-Valley pan gasket leak. You need to remove intake to replace it. Be careful not to damage knock sensor which is very common.

-Rear cover plate. Hardest point here-you need to remove transmission for that

 

Other leaks include lower hose sensor leak and hoses also get old and is a good idea to replace them every 5 years. Also Vent hose connected to the heads near throttle body goes bad every 5years or 80-100kmls

 

Always pressure test your cooling system- you cannot rely on visible findings saying there is no leaks.

You cannot see 30% cooling hoses located in the rear of your engine.

MAKE SURE YOU ALWAYS BLEED AIR OUT FROM COOLING SYSTEM EVERY TIME YOU WORKED ON IT:

-FILL COOLANT TANK TO FULL WITH BMW COOLANT, LEAVE CAP OPEN.

-TURN ON IGNITION (DONT START ENGINE YET) AND SET HEATER TO 90F WITH LOW FAN SPEED. MAKE SURE AUXILLARY PUMP IS RUNNING-YOU SHOULD HEAR IT ON THE DRIVER SIDE, LET IT RUN FOR 5 MINS

-START THE ENGINE AND LET IT RUN FOR 5 MINS, CLOSE THE RADIATOR CAP

-DRIVE YOUR CAR FOR AT LEAST 30 MINS

-NEXT MORNING CHECK THE LEVEL, ADD COOLANT IF NEEDED

 

Always take care of any leaks and check running temps! BMW cooling system is very important not only for the engine but for transmission as well- tranny cooler is connected to the same main radiator.

Poor condition cooling system will ruin your engine and transmission very quickly. Running with airlock will eventually deteriorate all rubber gaskets including valve seals and stuck piston rings.

Running Rough?? Check engine light? No Problem!!

In this article we are going to cover most common engine error codes and most common issues.

So don’t be freaked out with CEL and don’t rush into BMW dealer- its not that complicated to diagnose it yourself.

First you need BMW software (INPA, RHEINGOLD, DIS, GT) or even simple OBD reader can be of great help. Any check engine light can be diagnosed with OBD reader, though you cannot go in details, but in most cases is enough.

So you got error codes, now its time to decode them online so you know what those error codes mean.

Good idea to check fuel trims and O2 sensor adaptations, it will tell you if you have any vacuum leaks, which will make your engine run very inefficiently, shaking etc.

NOTE: IF YOU HAVE 0420, 0430 ERROR CODES WHICH TELL YOU THAT CATALYTIC CONVERTERS ARE NO GOOD ANYMORE, IT MEANS YOUR ENGINE IS BURNING OIL KILLING CATS, SO NEW CATS WILL  NOT LAST IF YOU DON’T FIX INITIAL PROBLEM WITH VALVE SEALS!! CATALYTIC CONVERTERS CAN EASILY LAST 300-400K, AND THEIR FAILURE INDICATES INTERNAL ENGINE PROBLEMS…

 

MOST COMMON AIR LEAKS:

-CCV or crankcase breathers. Cracked old membrane will create air leak, so DME will increase fuel trim, making it running rich

-VACUUM PUMP SEALS AND OIL SWITCH will create vacuum leak as well. They always leak after 5 years or so. Solution is simple- RTV or new seals from BMP DESIGN company, since bmw only sells small oring and they want you to buy 300$ vacuum pump instead.

-old oil cap will also create vacuum leak

-leaking valve cover gaskets will also create air leaks and more importantly leaking spark plug pipes will create misfires due to fouling ignition coils. If you remove a coil and its covered with oil, it means its leaking and VCG (valve cover gaskets) need to be replaced asap.

-old rubber intake boot is very common issue on N62b48 engine or BMW 750i, BMW 750LI

-intake manifold gaskets and injector o-rings also don’t last forever

 

But be aware that some error codes not necessarily mean you need to replace that or these parts. For example running lean or rich does not mean your O2 sensors or catalytic converters are bad. Always check O2 sensor adaptations, and if they adjust mixture and not stuck, it means youve got something else causing rich or lean mixture and O2 sensors have to adapt the mixture.

 

Sometimes bad Valvetronic or VVTI sensors don’t throw error codes but make engine run rough., you can always disconnect VVTI sensor and your engine will run using conventional throttle body approach, and if it runs smooth without VVTI, it means VVTI sensor is not working well or not adapted.

 

POST YOUR COMMENTS BELOW AND I WILL TRY TO HELP, you ca also email me, but since its not my primary job, i can not reply asap.

Logic7repair@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ABS, DSC, BRAKE LIGHT CHRISTMAS TREE?? NO PROBLEM!!

 

So you got very nice Christmas tree on your dashboard?? Well dont worry it happens sooner or later to any BMW. So one of a sudden all lights are on and IDRIVE is going crazy?

Don’t worry it can be fixed I under 200$!!

MOST COMMON CULPRIT IS YOUR ABS, DSC UNIT !!! IT DOES GO BAD VERY OFTEN DUE TO AGE AND HEAT UNDER THE HOOD!! There could be other things (abs sensors, harness issues, etc) causing those lights, but if all lights are on especially angle sensor light is on, it means module is dying, MOST COMMON DSC/ABS MODULE FAILURE SYMPTOM-NO ERRORS WHEN COLD AND AFTER ITS WARMED UP EVERYTHING IS BAD.

There are 2 options about it:

-Repair DSC module with warranty (best cheapest option). Don’t buy used one- it might not last and can also be bad and worst part you have to code it, which is not very simple procedure. Always try to fix it or get new one, WHICH IS SELF CODING AND WILL CODE ITSELF AFTER YOU PUT IT IN.

-Buy new module for 600$, self coding- will code itself after you installed it. Great option, but I think rebuilt one is better since its going to be stronger than OEM.

 

Replacing is easy: remove the unit, send it for repair or replace it with new one. Located on passenger side, black unit. You need to remove coolant tank to get access to all bolts holding it.

 

So it wasn’t very bad, isn’t it? Enjoy fully working dsc system, it will also affect transmission shifting, because its reading lots of signals form DSC unit. Bmw dealer will charge you more than 1200$ for it.