BMW F01/F02/F07/F25 LOGIC 7 AMPLIFIER REPAIR

In this article we are going to describe another next generation LOGIC 7 amplifier, which can be found on lots of BMW vehicles.

img_4020

Even though they have lots of different part numbers, but in reality this is the same amplifier, the only difference is coding, so based on the type of vehicle, this amplifier is coded to support different speaker setups and crossover settings.  THIS IS HOW IT LOOKS LIKE:

fullsizerender_1

This amplifier works the same way as first generation logic 7 amps was:

real_oem

 

 

Head unit or CIC sends digital sound data over fibre optic network called MOST, then amplifier receives it, converts to analogue signal and powers up 9 channels in your car and you can hear high end quality sound without any noise or very low noise compared to standard analogue amps.

This amplifier compared to previous LOGIC 7 generation has lots of advantages:

  • CLASS D
  • MORE POWER OUTPUT 600W
  • BETTER QUALITY BUILT BY LEAR
  • NEWER MORE RELIABLE CHIPS USED
  • SOUND QUALITY IS MUCH HIGHER
  • LESS POWER CONSUMPTION
  • LESS HEAT PRODUCED

Main problems with this amplifier:

  • NO SOUND AT ALL, SUDDEN LOSS OF SOUND
  • CRACKLING SPEAKERS
  • NO COMMUNICATION WITH THE AMP
  • LOW VOLUME AND WEAK POWER
  • NO DOOR CHIMES, NO SOUNDS AT ALL

SO GOOD NEWS WE CAN REPAIR THESE AMPLIFIERS WITH A GREAT SUCCESS.  Basically if your amp looks like the one on the pictures, we can fix it. These amps you’ll find in these BMW models:X5, x6, z4, m3, f01, f02, e92, e64, e63 and may be others. Part number is not very important, because we repair them all as long as they look similar to the pictures here. On older BMW it was called individual amplifier, so higher level than just logic 7 options, usually found on top vehicles, like M3, M5, X5M, M6 and others.


  Standard symptoms:

-no sound at all

-crackling speakers or sub woofers

-no communication

-other audio issues

After repair you don’t need any coding, it will be plug and play.

Q&A:

1. HOW DOES IT WORK?

-SIMPLE. YOU REMOVE YOUR AMPLIFIER AND SEND (FITS REALLY WELL INTO USPS FLAT RATE PRIORITY BOX 12$) IT TO US, IT TAKES 1-2 DAYS PLUS SHIPPING 2-3 DAYS MAX, also write down transaction PayPal or ebay id on the amplifier, so we know all details and where to send it back. If you didn’t make the payment and want to pay once fixed, please provide your contact info (email or phone number):

LOGIC 7 AMPS

8000 RESEARCH FOREST DRIVE

STE 115-316

SPRING, TX, 77382

415-323-3412

2. HOW DO I KNOW IF MY AMP IS BAD?

-BASED ON SYMPTOMS AND DIAGNOSTICS. USUALLY NO SOUND MEANS AMP FAILED OR IF SPEAKERS DON’T SOUND RIGHT. IF WE GET YOUR AMP AND IT APPEARS ITS IN GOOD SHAPE WE ONLY CHARGE 50$ DIAGNOSTICS FEE.

3. DO YOU TEST THEM?

-YES WE STRESS TEST ALL THE AMPS PRIOR TO SENDING BACK

4.WILL IT LAST?

-YES IT SHOULD LAST SIMILAR TO BRAND NEW AMP, BECAUSE WE INSTALL ORIGINAL OEM PARTS. CHECK OUR REVIEWS, WE REPAIRED 1800+ AMPS SINCE 2011.

Also we install more powerful power chips, so it can sustain higher current ratings.

5. I HAVE DIFFERENT SYMPTOMS, CAN I CALL?

-IF YOU DIDN’T FIND ANSWERS HERE, CALL OR EMAIL HERE

415-323-3412

6. How does the warranty work??

-simple. If something happens to the amp, but without physical damage or water damage, you can send it back, all we need to know is eBay or PayPal transaction id, this is how we know all the info: when warranty starts, model of the amp and serial number and what has been done to it.

7. Is it safe for my car?

-absolutely. We install oem parts, so there is no difference made to the amp internals.

8. Is it legitimate business?

-yes it is, we’ve been around since 2009 fixing amps. You are fully protected by PayPal and eBay policy. Which means you can always get your money back if something didn’t work out. So far we repaired 1900+ amps, we work with dealers all over the world but mostly within USA.

9. Why is it so much to repair it?

-well, this amp is fully digital and has nothing to do with old school amps you can buy new for 100$. Parts are expensive and we use expensive equipment to work on them, plus we provide 1 year warranty, which costs us a lot as well.

10. Why would I pay 350$ if I can find used amp for 300-400$??

– well, for a few good reasons:

A) we install new oem parts which usually go bad on these amps with years, so it should last longer than used amp more likely it’ll last like brand new one.

B) this amplifier has your car VIN number coded. so you will not need any coding, because you will get your amplifier back which was coded to your car from factory. Coding is not that simple, so buying used amp will not be plug and play. Bmw dealer will not program used amp or any other used part to your car, only new parts will be installed and coded at the dealer, which means it might cost you up to 2000$ to install a new amp correctly. In our case you DON’T NEED TO SEE ANYBODY, which means you will spend only 350$ period.


Part 65129248552 was found on the following vehicles:

Supersedes:

65129249610
(12/01/2010 — 06/13/2013), Exchangeable retrospectively
65129239045
(09/01/2010 — 05/18/2011), Exchangeable retrospectively
65129224236
(03/01/2010 — 10/02/2010), Exchangeable retrospectively
65129221624
(09/01/2009 — 03/04/2010), Exchangeable retrospect. in connect. w
65129204842
(03/01/2009 — 10/02/2009), Bilaterally exchangeable
65129205185
(09/26/2008 — 03/17/2009), Bilaterally exchangeable
65129199860
(09/01/2008 — 08/19/2008), Exchangeable retrospectively
65129196250
(09/01/2008 — 07/23/2008), Exchangeable retrospectively
65129180183
(03/01/2008 — 10/13/2008), Bilaterally exchangeable
65129177520
(12/01/2007 — 03/19/2008), Bilaterally exchangeable
65129166075
(09/01/2007 — 01/14/2008), Exchangeable retrospectively
65129165013
(04/01/2007 — 01/23/2008), Bilaterally exchangeable
65129144275
(03/01/2007 — 05/02/2007), Bilaterally exchangeable
65129143633
(10/01/2006 — 03/17/2014), Bilaterally exchangeable
65129141667
(10/01/2006 — 09/04/2006), Bilaterally exchangeable
65129130698
(10/01/2006 — 08/16/2006)
Part 65129268833 was found on the following vehicles:
e70_amp_l70

BMW ENGINE LAG PROBLEM

BMW ENGINE LAG!

On BMW N62, N63 and other engines especially e65, e66, e60, e63, e64 series most likely you might experience some gas pedal lag delay or uneven power delivery at lows. It feels like you press on it and engine barely revs from lows or it revs, but you have to press it harder to feel it. Assuming engine and tranny do not have any problems and all other components run as they should, I mean no vacuum leaks, all sensors read correct values etc, but still it feels like gas pedal is slow at lows, usually in the city driving. Funny part BMW will tell you its normal lag because of drive by wire nowadays standard, though there was no delay on m62tu engines with similar drive by wire gas pedal back in 1999. Lots of people buy some magic gas pedal boosters 200-300$, but they should understand, that this booster simply sends 2x signal to DME (engine brain),so it basically feels like you press 2x harder. This method (if you call it a method) is not a good one for a few reasons:

-it will make your car less smoother or some say it fells jerky

-not safe, you can easily rear end someone in the city

-premature transmission wear and tear

-overall more stressful for the engine and tranny

-higher gas consumption

-overpriced 200$+

So we have been looking for a solution for a while and looks like we found it!!!

and its all original BMW OEM. You simply need to replace your gas pedal assembly with the newest one they sell at the dealers or online, but make sure they sell you the newer design, because newer pedal assembly is way better and has newer chip built in, also it has newer pedal design, so it wont get sticky if dirt or water gets there. You will be really surprised, that the lag will be gone and bmw will perform like it should without any lag from lows and overall will make it fell much smoother. Look at these pics:

newer part number is: 35426860784

you can get it form the dealer or online, just make sure they sell you newer design only, because lots of sellers still have old pedals in stock.

newer gas pedal design:

newer_gas_pedal

newer_gas_pedal_sideview

older gas pedal design:

old_gas_pedal

gas_pedal_old

   It is very easy to remove it, just remove plastic cap,  unscrew the metal screw 2, and then disconnect a connector. Install a new one and done! you can reset engine adaptations, but not very necessarily, it will work as is.

Basically BMW updated gas pedal design for that reason, but of course they didn’t recall it, so they know this problem really well, otherwise why they completely redesigned it??

This modification will work on any BMW with similar part numbers.

BMW E65, E66, E60, E63, E90, E92, E93, E64, E87, E53, E70 AUX PORT MOD MODIFICATION

Yes, it is very annoying, that BMW decided not to install aux port by default in our vehicles before 2007. In this post let’s find out what you need to get for AUX port in your bimmer.

E65 BMW 750I, 750LI, 760LI, 745I, 745LI, 730I, 730D ETC.

If your car is pre 2007, and you don’t have aux port in your idrive and neither you have aux port in your glove box- you are not in very good shape. To say the least its the hardest bmw body type if you decided you need aux port! Why?  Because ask unit cd player and pretty much all multimedia modules in this car are digital, and there is no analogue signals anymore, and aux port signal is analogue, so common sense tells you need to convert it to digital bmw e65 signal in order to get sound from your sound system, doesn’t sound easy at all to say the least.

So here are the options:

  1. BMW E65 FACTORY OEM AUX PORT INSTALLATION.  DO NOT EVEN THINK OF BUYING BMW OEM AUX CORD JUST BECAUSE SOMEONE SAID ITS SO SIMPLE: BUY THE CORD 5-75$ CONNECT OT THE BACK OF YOUR ASK UNIT AND DONE??? REALLY?  YES, CORD WILL FIT IN THERE AND THAT’S IT HERE- YOU WILL NOT GET ANYTHING WORKING APART FROM THAT GOOD SIDE YOU HAVE USELESS AUX PORT IN YOUR CAR. WELL, HERE IS WHAT YOU NEED:
    1. IF YOUR CAR IS PREFACE LIFTED 2002-2005  BMW 745I, 745LI, 760LI, 730I, 730D, THEN YOU NEED NEWER TYPE MMI SCREEN FROM 2006-2008 MODELS PLUS NEWER 2007-2008 ASK UNIT CD PLAYER. AND AFTER THAT YOU HAVE TO CODE BOTH TO YOUR CAR USING NCS EXPERT BMW PROGRAM TO ENABLE AUX INPUT IN MMI SCREEN (IF SCREEN CAME FROM 2006 CAR) AND CODE ASK UNIT TO WORK WITH YOUR TUNER AND OTHER MODULES. WHY? BECAUSE EVERY CAR  HAS DIFFERENT OPTIONS AND FOR EXAMPLE RADIO TUNER WILL NOT WORK WITH NEWER ASK UNIT IF NOT REPROGRAMMED OR RECODED, ALSO SOME CARS WERE EQUIPPED WITH L7 TOP HIFI SYSTEM VS STANDARD HIFI SYSTEM, THAT’S WHY THOSE MODULES HAVE TO BE CODED. AND ONLY AFTER ALL THESE PROCEDURES YOU CAN BUY AUX BMW CORD AND IT WILL WORK! ALSO YOU WILL NEED FACELIFTED WOODEN TRIM, BC YOUR ORIGINAL WILL NOT FIT ANYMORE.
    2. IF YOUR CAR IS FACELIFTED 2006 BMW 750I, 750LI, 760LI, 740D, YOU ARE IN BETTER POSITION. YOU WILL ONLY NEED NEWER ASK UNIT 2007+, BC EVEN THOUGH THEY LOOK THE SAME, HARDWARE INSIDE IS SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT AND ONLY LATER 2006 (WEEK 30 AND UP)+ MODELS WILL WORK WITH AUX UNIT AND CODING MMI SCREEN TO ACCEPT AUX INPUT, THEN YOU WILL GET AUX IN THE MENU AND EASY WAY TO CHECK IF ASK UNIT SUPPORTS AUX IS TO SEE IF IT RETURNS AUX LEVEL AFTER YOU CHOSE AUX IN THE MENU. OLDER ASK UNITS WILL NOT RETURN THAT LEVEL SUB MENU.

2. NON OEM AUX PORT CAN ONLY BE INSTALLED VIA RADIO TUNER MODULE, YOU WILL GET CLEAR SOUND, AND IT WILL OVERRIDE ANY RADIO STATION. VERY SIMPLE, YOU PLUG YOUR PHONE AND YOU WILL GET CD QUALITY SOUND. IT WILL ONLY WORK IF YOU DON’T HAVE HD RADIO MODULE. WILL WORK WITH ANY E65 2002-2008.  THIS IS TOTALLY DIFFERENT COMPARED TO LOW QUALITY RADIO TRANSMITTERS MODS. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH FM/AM, IT WILL OVERRIDE SOUND SOURCE. WORKS VERY GOOD WITH APPLE DEVICES. IF YOU NEED HELP WITH AUXILIARY PORT INSTALLATION YOU CAN EMAIL FOR DETAILS.

ALL OTHER SERIES ARE MUCH EASIER. E60, E90, E63, E64, E92, E93, E87, E53, E70 WILL ONLY NEED AUX PORT ENABLED VIA NCS CODING AND BUYING A CABLE.

BMW ABS/DSC/BRAKE LIGHTS ON? Christmas tree on the dash?

So this article is about quite standard problem you can find on lots of cars, but here its about BMW. So you started getting first random  lights on the dash and later it became permanent lights on mess on the dash. Usually you get ABS, DSC, DTC, BRAKE lights on and some messages on the idrive, like drive train malfunction, etc.

ABS_DSC

Lots of mechanics diagnose it as bad abs sensors, abs pump etc, because it shows these errors on the scanner.

YES, IT WILL NOT TELL YOU THAT ABS MODULE IS BAD, IT WILL ONLY TELL YOU WHAT SIGNALS ARE LOST, THEREFORE YOU END UP REPLACING LOTS OF WHEEL SENSORS, ABS PUMPS, SWITCHES AND SO ON. THE ANSWER IS INSIDE THE ABS UNIT-TINY GOLDEN WIRES BROKE OFF FROM AGE AND VIBRATION AND THAT’S WHY YOU GET ALL THOSE ERRORS!

ABS_DSC-_ENGINE

new_abs

SO SIMPLY REPLACE ABS/DSC UNIT WITH A NEW ONE (600$+)OR GET IT REBUILD FOR 100-150$ WITH WARRANTY. NOTICE NEW CLEAN MODULE DOES NOT NEED CODING- IT IS SELF CODED, SIMPLY IT WILL WRITE VIN NUMBER AFTER YOU CONNECT IT FOR THE FIRST TIME, SO DON’T PAY ANYONE FOR “CODING” NEW UNIT. USED UNIT NEEDS TO BE REPROGRAMMED, BUT I RECOMMEND NEW UNIT OR REBUILD YOURS.

Engine Overheating? No its not a head gasket problem!

Ok, i decided to create this post because i see lots of bimmers running hot or even overheating. You would say nothing new here, right? Well believe it or not lots of mechanics or shops trying to resolve this problem with no luck and in the end as a final solution they offer head gasket repair, which won’t fix anything.

So here are the main standard problems, applies to any water cooled engine:

  1. Radiator cap not sealing well or valve inside is not working anymore causing boiling in your cooling system due to pressure loss. Solution? replace radiator cap every 5 years even if its good.
  2. Any coolant leak will create pressure loss and introduce air in the system. Make sure there is no leaks. Use Pressure tester.
  3. Thermostat if bad, it stays open on these engines, and you usually get error code P0128 if heater inside burned or you get thermostat jammed error code. usually tstat lasts 70-100k easily.
  4. Water pump impeller can slip or even fall apart or bearing might seize causing total failure. Good thing these engines head gaskets are very strong and can sustain serious overheating.
  5. REPLACE TEMP SENSORS EVERY 70KMLS, THEY DO GO BAD AND SOMETIMES SHOW LOWER TEMPS THEN IT IS, ESPECIALLY WATER PUMP TEMP SENSOR, LOWER SENSOR IS KNOWN FOR  O-RING LEAK, APPLIES TO ANY BIMMER.
  6.  Main engine fan (electric) is bad or fan clutch not working anymore, though even with a bad fan clutch and fully working cooling system you will not get overheating, unless you are in Dubai traffic:) AC fan is very effective even with a bad fan clutch. Since 2004 BMW uses only electric fan for both AC and engine, so if it goes bad, you  will get overheating.

So, i was not going to create simple overheating article you can find anywhere, right? Its gotta be unique on this site! Here we go:

So what to do if there is no leaks and all hoses are new, gaskets etc, pressure tester confirmed no pressure loss, but engine still runs hot overheating transmission as well??? Did you know running hot will destroy all rubber gaskets and other rubber parts? Why? Because engine temps are not consistent like it  was designed! Ok, here is something nobody cares about when trying to fix overheating issues:

HEATER CONTROL VALVE! THIS VALVE DOES NOT LAST! RUBBER SEALS INSIDE BECOME BRITTLE, CLOGGING UP THE COOLANT CHANNELS GOING TO THE HEATER CORE! RESULT IS OBVIOUS=YOU CANNOT BLEED THE AIR OUT OF HEATER CORE=OVERHEATING! THIS ENGINE HAS SELF BLEEDING COOLANT SYSTEM, BUT IT WILL NOT WORK IF THIS VALVE IS CLOGGED.

HERE IS DISASSEMBLED HEATER VALVE FROM 2006 750LI with 98kmls. As you can see rubber seals are cracked and not flexible anymore, BUT if you have working auxillary water pump, you still get okay heat cabin, but system has air pocket, since you need very good flow when bleeding coolant system.

photo 1

HERE IS THE MAIN PROBLEM: YOU SHOULD SEE A NICE RUBBER SEAL AROUND THE VALVE, BUT ITS ALL BROKEN AND THE WORST PART IT CLOGGED RIGHT CHANNEL COMPLETELY:

photo 2 photo 3

SO GOOD RECOMMENDATION IS TO REPLACE IT EVERY 5-7 YEARS AND START EVERY COOLANT SYSTEM PROBLEM FROM THIS VALVE REPLACEMENT. IF THIS VALVE IS GOOD YOU CAN DRIVE YOUR CAR  EVEN WITH LEAKING COOLANT (I KNOW ITS NOT A GOOD IDEA), BUT YOU WILL NOT GET OVERHEATING ISSUES IF YOU KEEP ADDING COOLANT, BECAUSE ENGINE WILL BLEED ITSELF ALL THE TIME IF HEATER CORE HAS NO AIR POCKETS.  REMEMBER COOLANT SYSTEM IS THE MOST IMPORTANT SYSTEM IN YOUR CAR!

SO UNTIL YOU SEE OIL IN THE COOLING SYSTEM, OR COOLANT IN THE OIL OR EXHAUST SMELL FROM COOLANT TANK, DO NOT BELIEVE IN THE HEAD GASKET FAILURE. WHEN HEAD GASKET IS BAD, YOU  WILL KNOW IT FOR SURE:) V8, IS VERY STRONG ENGINE AND ITS NOT EASY TO DESTROY HEAD GASKET BY JUST OVERHEATING, DOESN’T APPLY TO STRAIGHT 6 THOUGH….

 

 

IVM or why my engine runs sluggish??? N62 applies to ALL cars with it. E53/e65/e60/e63/e64/e66

In this unique article i will describe why your engine  feels weak and you don’t feel low end torque anymore.

So you cannot find any faults in DME and no lights are on, everything is clean, but you feel your V8 runs like 4 cylinder KIA on lows? It applies to all bmw with n62 engines: E53, E63,E65, E66, E64, E60 and others.

Probably you heard about IVM failure main symptom:

-it will not start when you press the button, like no cranking at all, but it might start the next time or in few secs. It also might throw few errors in CAS because it didn’t start.

Yes, this happens when IVM went out completely and you are lucky if you got this symptom and you replaced IVM and found out it runs so much better and no issues at all.

Well, but in most (90%) cases it will not fail completely and will not show any symptoms and errors will be thrown.  For example in my case, i didn’t have any faults, but i was trying to find out why i have:

-Weak torque o low rpms 2-3k rpm, it just feels weak, gets better if it gets past 4-5k

-weak response when you press the gas pedal

-delay hesitation on take off

-transmission shifts incorrectly and feels like it shifts to higher gear too early. Like it will shift to 5th gear, but there is no power for it.

-sometimes you feel slight vibration on idle

-on HWY you feel like you need to constantly press the gas pedal otherwise it will slow down a lot. IN OTHER WORDS IT DOESN’T PULL BEFORE 4000K

-MPG is very bad

Anyways after spending some time and lots of money, honestly, it was very  annoying and upsetting, so i was about to get rid of my car, because it doesn’t feel V8 at all, it simply feels like 4 cylinder honda or something like this. You press on the gas and it doesn’t go, you have to press to 4000rpm to make it moving!!!! So after i tested my engine compression, transmission and all diagnostics showed up no errors, i was upset, because nothing else was left! I even replaced fuel pump though old one was showing ok pressure etc. NOBODY COULD TELL ME WHAT WAS WRONG.

photo 1(1)

and inside after T40 torxs were taken out:

photo 3 photo 4

And at some point i decided to open IVM since i was replacing the Ebox fan ( if you have ebox fan error, i strongly recoomen to replace it, because it helps to cool down ecu, and if it overheats it will cost you thousands easily). So what i found in IVM??? First what is IVM???

photo(4)

IVM is an INTEGRATED VOLTAGE MODULE, but in reality is just a relay module with 12 mini nice looking 4$ relays, yes simple relays, and everything looked good, except for DME RELAY!! 2 legs had soldering points cracked!! I assume they use silver solder and it cannot withstand the heat !! so…. you understand now what happens if DME relay points don’t have a good contact?  yes, injectors will not get a good signal and cannot open like they should and probably same thing for ignition! As a result engine runs like crp:) IVM_bad

After i repaired it, my N62 started running like brand new! and now i get 17/25 mpg easy! after that i saw about 30 cars and all of them had same issue, but nobody complained about engine torque:) they thought it was supposed to be like this! this is repaired IVM:

photo 2

I recommend to install a new one if you are not ok with soldering or try to solder it yourself and save 80$. Always clean contacts from old solder and sand it as much as you could and use old school lead based solder with good flux.

TRY IT AND ENJOY, EVEN IF YOU THINK EVERYTHING IS OK WITH YOUR CAR!! TAKES 10 MINS TO REMOVE. DO NOT BELIEVE THE DEALER THAT NOTHING IS WRONG WITH YOUR CAR BECAUSE COMPUTER DIDN’T SHOW ANY ERRORS, NOTHING IS PERFECT SO IS BMW, IT CANNOT DIAGNOSE ITSELF 100%. I FOUND THIS PROBLEM ON 30+ cars and counting! ITS A DESIGN FLAW, BUT BMW WILL NOT RECALL IT, THEY WILL ONLY REPLACE IT WHEN YOU GET NO START ERRORS!!!

 

 

Smoking white from tailpipe?? N62, N72 family engines applies to any V8, V12 from 2002 AND UP.

Smoking white from tailpipe?? N62, N72 family engines applies to any V8, V12 from 2002 AND UP.

smok valve seals

So most likely if you own bmw with N62 or N73 engine, most likely you have oil consumption or you noticed your car smokes white after prolonged sitting and idling??? Well this is the worst and very common problem with these engines. Do not listen to any fairy tales and accept it:

YOU NEED NEW VALVE SEALS! AND IT ALSO CAUSES CLOGGED AIR PORTS ON N62B44

Nothing will help and don’t waste your time and money:

-don’t even try thicker oils, it won’t help and is very bad for vanos lines

-don’t think any seafoming can help

You can replace CCV or mushroom valves on the valve covers. If they are cracked, you will get check engine light or simply it will introduce oil fumes into combustion camera. But here is the catch:

ccv

even if CCV is bad and torn completely, there is not much oil in the fumes to produce that much smoke anyways, even if you connect crankcase line directly into intake manifold (this is how it was connected in old cars anyways), you will not get much or any noticeable white smoke if compression is good, but it will affect oil consumption for sure.

But when valve seals are bad, you will definitely introduce lots of oil into the combustion camera, because it leaks right on the piston, compared to CCV, when there is time to mix oil fumes with intake air.

this what you need:

valveseals

FAILURE TO REPLACE VALVE SEALS WILL CAUSE:

-CATALYTHIC CONVERTERS FAILURE SOONER OR LATER

-RESTRICTED AIR FLOW FOR SECONADRY INJECTION PORTS ON 745LI, 645I, 545I, 745I

-WILL DAMAGE SPARK PLUGS

-WILL MAKE YOUR COMBUSTION CAMERA DIRTY, CAUSING ENEVEN IDLE AND POWER LOSS

-DRIVING WITH LOW OIL LEVEL WILL DAMAGE THE ENGINE

-WILL CLOG MUFFLERS AS WELL

So long story short you need valve seal job, which is expensive even at small shops 1500$-3000$ or 8000-9000$ at BMW dealerships!!!!! Good news is new valve seals were updated and will last for long.

My GOOD recommendations:

-YOU CAN DO IT WITHOUT REMOVING HEADS

-AVOID AGA MAGICAL TOOL: IT IS MUCH FASTER AND EASIER TO REMOVE CAMS AND DO IT RIGHT.

-ALWAYS REPLACE UPPER TIMING CHAIN COVER GASKETS ALONG WITH NEW VALVE COVER GASKETS

-REPLACE CHAIN TENSIONERS IN THE HEADS, BUT I ALSO RECOMMEND NEW CHAIN GUIDES, BECAUSE THEY DO WEAR OUT AND CAUSE UNEVEN IDLE AND POWER LOSS.

-INSTALL NEW CCV AND CLEAN CCV LINES EVERY 60KMLS

-DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT USED ENGINE!!! IT COULD AS BAD AS YOURS, BECAUSE RUBBER VALVE SEALS DO AGE WITH YEARS OF SITTING BADLY.

ALL VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH N62 ENGINES WILL EXPERINCE THIS PROBLEM SOONER OR LATER! IT CAN HAPPEN EVEN TO LOW MILES CARS, EVEN 40-60KMLS, SO WHEN YOU BUY N62 CAR

Battery replacement BMW e65 745i, 745Li, 750i, 750Li, 760Li, 730D, 740D, 730i, 735LI, common mistakes

Applies to any BMW with power module:

e90, e60, e70, F01, F02, F30 etc

So you got a “recharge battery’ warning, and you went to AutoZone or any other store and bought new battery. You installed it, then you probably were told to register it, or some mechanic registered it for you.

You think everything is good now, right?? But battery warning still comes back and some smart mechanic or independent shop tells you its okay as long as battery is new and registered!

So here is the story:

One 2003 BMW 745li with very low miles came over with ABS module errors and with battery discharge warning. Well, he replaced the battery and it was “professionally registered”. But not only problems still there, but now it actually creates lots of faults on the top! Plus his alternator seized! Coincidence?? So lets see:

BMW e65 before 2004 were equipped with 110ah standard lead acid battery.

After 2004 they introduced new standard, which is 90ah AGM battery (which is great battery if maintained well).

So not only type is different, but capacity is lower!!!

What happens when today you buy 90AGM battery (they don’t sell older 110ah battery for these cars) and install it into the vehicle which has highly sophisticated power module, which knows battery type and capacity??

Quite simple:

it will still think you have 110ah lead acid old battery and it will constantly try to charge it to get it to fully charged state!!! And it will not ever happen, but will destroy your new battery and will put lots of stress on alternator plus you might get various faults in different modules!

OLD 110ah LEAD ACID BATTERY setting:

CBS_SCEN_10H
    nicht_aktiv
CC_15_EIN
    wert_01
BATTERIE_KAPAZITAET
    110ah
ERKENNE_SBE1_HI_RE

NEW 90AGM SETTING

BATTERIE_KAPAZITAET
    90ah
ERKENNE_SBE1_HI_RE

or you can use BMW progman, which will do it automatically, but i prefer NCS instead: quick&easy&safe

That’s why BMW dealership will charge you more to reprogram your vehicle so it supports new battery type. This is what lots of mechanics and shops don’t know about or simply ignore it!!! Why?? because they don’t want to learn anything and interested in quick and easy money.

So basically you are supposed to check what power module says, but if your car is 2004+, most likely it came with 90AGM and all you need to do is to register it. There are few options here:

BMW INPA, ISTA, aftermarket tools can run it too, but only NCSEXPERT or PROGMAN can reprogram power module so it supports 90AGM.

AND YES YOU HAVE TO REGISTER NEW BATTERY, BECAUSE POWER MODULE CONSTANTLY CHECKS THE BATTTERY CAPACITY AND WITH AGE, BATTERY GETS WEAKER AND THEREFORE IT APPLIES LESS CURRENT TO FULLY CHARGE IT. SO NOT REGISTERING NEW BATTERY WILL MAKE POWER MODULE THINK, YOU HAVE STILL OLD WEAK BATTERY AND IT WILL NOT TRY TO FULLY CHARGE IT (I’M NOT GOING DEEPLY INTO DIFFERENT SPECS IT CHECKS AND RUNS WHILE YOU DRIVING YOUR CAR), BUT BOTTOM LINE YOU HAVE TO REGISTER IT AND IF YOUR CAR IS OLDER MODEL, YOU AVE TO MAKE SURE POWER MODULE ACCEPTS 90AGM.

HYDRAULIC TRUNK LIFT SAGA, MAIN ISSUES!

In this post i will describe standard problems and the ways to fix it and also the ways to retrofit it back to simple trunk shocks.

trunk_hydro

Premium option S316A for e65/66 was hydraulic trunk lift.  Yes its very comfortable and convenient, but with years these nice options give  more headaches, than luxury feeling. This Option includes:

-electro-hydraulic pump (located in the rear right panel) (8) -rarely just low on fluid due to leaks

-hydraulic piston or actuator, which lifts the trunk (3)- fails often, leaks onto NAVI unit

-Trunk lid shocks (23) -fails often

-electronic module (12) -rarely fails

And what fails? Everything, except for the pump (it has safety prevention valve).

 TRUNK LID SHOCKS FAILURE:

So if your trunk lid still opens after you press the button (remote, interior, trunk button), but it wont stay open or barely stays open especially on the hill

shocks_trunk

– YOU NEED NEW TRUNK LID SHOCKS (23), they got upgraded with silver coils vs old black ones which always fail.  NEW upgraded P/n: 51247201461. So even if your old ones are still working i strongly recommend newer springs, because it will help to reduce stress from hydraulic cylinder as well.

  Hydraulic Cylinder Leak:

Well, this is the worst and most expensive…. So if you press the button and nothing happens or you can hear the pump is trying to lift the lid but it shuts down right away, it means 2 things:

-Hydraulic fluid is low and therefore it stops the pump from failure. Sometimes BMW says you can loose some fluid over the time due to evaporation, aging etc…. but in my experience it means Cylinder leak. You can add some fluid into the pump on the left panel, but most likely it will leak out soon.

-Cylinder leak. In this case it explains where the sticky red fluid leaked and created mess in your left rear panel,  usually you see SVS,  NAVI unit covered in oil.

trunk_hydro

Options? Well you need new hydraulic cylinder kit p/n: 51247202868, which is quite expensive ~300$.  Plus you need new shocks 160-180$, 500$ in parts!! Lots of hassle to install it as well.

OR IF YOU ARE TIRED OF THIS (300$+160$(SHOCKS))AND WANT JUST A SIMPLE TRUNK OPTION, I RECOMMEND YOU FOLLOWING STANDARD TRUNK LID RETROFIT:

-you need to remove trunk shocks (use sharp pick tool to remove shock lock)

-disconnect  hydraulic cylinder and remove it including lines or simply move it out of the way.

-disconnect hydraulic pump electric connector or disconnect hydraulic trunk HKL module.  You can code it out using NCS, but not necessary.

-buy and install standard shocks 80$ each p/n: 51247201463

-DONE! Enjoy standard hassle free trunk lid with soft close feature. I know its not that luxury, but 500$ still in your pocket and you should be happy, bc no more worries it will leak again and flood your expensive modules. BMW says not to leave your car in the open sun, bc it makes things worse for hydarulic cylinder causing premature failure.

 

 

BMW n62 cooling system issues

This article is about most common BMW cooling system faults and how to diagnose and repair it.

Well, to start we need to know what perfect temperature specs for this V8 V12engine.

When car is fully warmed up and idling for 10 minutes you should see these numbers:

Upper Hose temperature-103-105C

n62b44_tstat_open_oem

note: Lower hose should be within 60-70C, this is very important because it indicates proper cooling system function. Lower hose or coolant output readings should be within 60-70C with open tstat.

very common mistake when mechanic thinks he bled the system right, but he doesn’t know the heater control valve is clogged and there is no way to bleed the air out and lower hose stays COLD, even auxiliary water pump fails because of this.

This screenshot shows proper transmission temperatures, when cooling system is fully functional and sealed:

6hp26_temps

 

NOTE: Some cars have cold firmware which opens up thermostat earlier therefore engine running temps are lower.

ALWAYS REPLACE RADIATOR CAP EVERY 5 YEARS, IT DOESNT LAST FOREVER!

If temps stay at 105-110C, it definitively means you have an airlock, which causing overheating and lower hose running cold.

This engine has self bleeding system, but it only works if cooling system is in great shape!

So most common problem you cannot bleed the air out is HEATER CONTROL VALVE, which always goes bad after 5-7 years or even earlier. Its very easy to replace and costs around 140$. Usually rubber valves crack and deteriorate clogging the valve so you cannot bleed the air out, moreover it clogs heater core, which is a real pain to replace. So remove the valve and at least inspect it:

-it should be clean inside and valves are open without 12V applied and easy to blow air through, in other words it should not have any restriction, but word of advice-REPLACE it, don’t wait, and it will also improve heat cabin.

 

LEAKS:

-Front seal aka weep hole problem can be easily diagnosed checking weep hole on the timing cover

Can be easily fixed with aftermarket solutions or with simple aluminum+RTV solution, which actually works pretty good.

-Valley pan gasket leak. You need to remove intake to replace it. Be careful not to damage knock sensor which is very common.

-Rear cover plate. Hardest point here-you need to remove transmission for that

 

Other leaks include lower hose sensor leak and hoses also get old and is a good idea to replace them every 5 years. Also Vent hose connected to the heads near throttle body goes bad every 5years or 80-100kmls

 

Always pressure test your cooling system- you cannot rely on visible findings saying there is no leaks.

You cannot see 30% cooling hoses located in the rear of your engine.

MAKE SURE YOU ALWAYS BLEED AIR OUT FROM COOLING SYSTEM EVERY TIME YOU WORKED ON IT:

-FILL COOLANT TANK TO FULL WITH BMW COOLANT, LEAVE CAP OPEN.

-TURN ON IGNITION (DONT START ENGINE YET) AND SET HEATER TO 90F WITH LOW FAN SPEED. MAKE SURE AUXILLARY PUMP IS RUNNING-YOU SHOULD HEAR IT ON THE DRIVER SIDE, LET IT RUN FOR 5 MINS

-START THE ENGINE AND LET IT RUN FOR 5 MINS, CLOSE THE RADIATOR CAP

-DRIVE YOUR CAR FOR AT LEAST 30 MINS

-NEXT MORNING CHECK THE LEVEL, ADD COOLANT IF NEEDED

 

Always take care of any leaks and check running temps! BMW cooling system is very important not only for the engine but for transmission as well- tranny cooler is connected to the same main radiator.

Poor condition cooling system will ruin your engine and transmission very quickly. Running with airlock will eventually deteriorate all rubber gaskets including valve seals and stuck piston rings.